One Foot Of Chain Tells You A Lot

 

Every year as I mechanic across the country I throw away dozens of cog sets and chainrings whose life could have been extended with a little bit of attention…mainly attention to the chain.  Chain wear is inevitable but it shouldn’t ruin your whole drive train if you keep it clean, lubricated, inspect it regularly, and replace the chain before it damages other components. 

The first step in maintaining a smooth shifting system and giving it a long life is to keep it clean and well lubricated.  No one will argue the importance of lubrication, but many people neglect the cleaning process.  Simply lubricating a chain over and over without cleaning eventually becomes counterproductive as it attracts dirt and grit.  Grit multiplies the natural wear and tear on these moving, rubbing parts.  This grit gets into the pins of the chain and expedites their wear as they travel thousands of times around the cogs and chainrings.  The result is chain stretch and excessive chain side flex.  The side-flex will eventually affect smooth shifting, as the chain will get sloppy as side forces are put on it by the shift system.  Chain stretch (the medal doesn’t really stretch, but the chain actually becomes longer as these pins wear so they are farther apart) will begin to wear the cogs and chainrings to match the longer chain.  This ruins these components very quickly. 

Cleaning will extend the life of the chain but replacing the chain regularly will extend the life of the rest of the drive train.  Neglect of this process can ruin an expensive drive system within 3000-4000 miles.  What’s a regular basis?  It depends on how well you kept it clean and what conditions you ride in.  I recommend changing approximately every 2000 miles or so for roadies (maybe sooner if you don’t keep the chain clean), or anytime you start finding “stretch.”  If you replace the chain before it starts to stretch, you keep the other parts (cogs, pulleys, and chainrings) wearing against a good chain (one that’s not stretched).  To keep explanations simple, this keeps the spacing of the teeth constant.  If you replace the chain regularly, you will get longer life on the other components.  Replacing the chain regularly is not only good preventative maintenance it’s also the least expensive option since you’ll be able to do it several times before you have to replace the cogs, and even more times before replacing the chainrings.  Wait too long to replace the chain and you may have to replace the whole shooting match…that costs bucks!

How do you check for chain stretch you ask?  It’s easy.  You can buy a chain stretch tool from a parts catalog or bike shop.  This tool will indicate when it’s time to replace the chain.  Or if you are cheap like me, you can measure the chain.  To do this, lock the rear brake and put pressure on the pedals to tighten the chain.  Then measure the distance between the chain pins with a ruler (measure the section of chain that’s under stress...on top of the cogs to the top of the large chainring).  Put “0” on the center of a pin and then look at the “12 inch” mark.  The pin at the one-foot mark should be dead center…if it is long by any measure, it’s either time to replace the chain or it could already be too late.  I've seen chains that were a complete link (that's 1/2 inch) longer over the entire length of chain compared to a new one...now how could that be a good thing?   

There’s nothing worse than a chain that skips as you try to climb a hill or a loud rattle every time you try to shift gears.  These may just be simple adjustment problems, but the neglected wear of a dirty, stretched chain will definitely affect other components that will cost you unnecessary grief and money before you know it.  If you keep your drive train clean, lubricated, and replace the chain regularly; you’ll find you’ll have many miles of carefree cycling and you’ll avoid those costly repairs due to excessive wear from an overused chain.    Come to think of it, I think I'll go change mine right now.  Happy cycling...J

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