
Where the deer and the antelope roam . . .
| ROUTE: Casper to Lusk, WY | DISTANCE: 108 | WINDS: Headwinds all day |
| WEATHER: Hot at start, hotter (101F) at finish | TERRAIN: High rolling plains; no shade, several miles long, gradual climbs | TOTAL CLIMBING: 2,860 feet |
RIDE OVERVIEW: Whatta
day! I was supposed to be in the van all day providing SAG, but Karen let me
ride the first 30 miles to SS#1 and then she took to the road with Mike, who was
Sweep, and I climbed into the van. Good thing, too, as I'm the type who would
overheat in a walk-in-cooler, and the day heated up to over 100F. The sun was
unmerciful. There is little shade on these high plains, but what there is, is
found. Today I saw horses crowded into the shade of a billboard, antelope
on the shaded sides of draws, and riders favoring the shaded side of White and
Box at SSs.
It was already toasty with the wind out of the southeast when we departed Casper on a nice frontage road that paralleled I-25 for the first 30 miles. Then we got on the interstate for about 14 miles and finished the last 50 miles on one of the loneliest stretches of road around . . . SH 18/20. The only break in the scenery riders had after leaving the interstate were the coal trains that came by about every 15 minutes. The trains out here have anywhere from 100-150 cars and fill up the horizon when they pass by. You can spend all afternoon counting the cars on a passing train . . . one was parked waiting for another to pass and I measured it with my bike computer at 1.6 miles long. They move very slowly when going east, some with three engines in front and one in back to help them up the long, shallow grades. They're really friendly and always toot at us as they pass. The railroad followed a large part of our route on the day we rode into Casper, too. On that day, a RR worker from Nebraska pulled up to SS#3 and practically drooled with envy over what we were doing. He was a cyclist and had "2 years, 2 days" 'til retirement when he would have the time to go on a x-country bike tour. I gave him one of the ABB catalogs.
Riders
The terrain today was dry, and rolling. Again we
are in a vast area where you can see forever. . . you don't see much, but you
can see a long way. We're starting to get into the grassland area that's a
little more interesting than the desert, but we still ride for miles without
seeing a living soul outside of a passing car occasionally. If souls are scarce,
antelope and cottontails are not. I stopped by one field and counted 30 rabbits
gamboling about in the sagebrush. Antelope grazed everywhere on both sides of
the road. Three stepped directly in front of the van, and when I applied the
brakes, all things shifted abruptly to the front. We passed through one
prairie dog colony and all the dogs shrilled out their alarm whistle:
"Biiiiiii-cyclists!
Biiiiiii-cyclists!" I was surprised to see an oil well or two on our route
today, too. Douglas was the only town that had services, and many of the riders
stopped there for lunch. Many riders also stopped in Shawnee and talked to the
post mistress, Amy, who'd been there for 35 years. She told us that the town
population was 3. We cycled through another town (Lost Springs) that had a
population of only 1, at least that's what the sign said, but judging from the
size of the bar in this town, I'd say they needed to update their population
count. The local bar was a very large two-story building. . . for 1 person?
This area adds new meaning to "small town America."
After we got to town, we found it full of revelers . . . there was a frontier days celebration going on complete with parade and reenactment of times gone by--such as the Cheyenne-Deadwood stagecoach route during the Black Hills Gold rush. A local character who epitomizes that era was Mother Featherlegs, a red headed woman who wore red pantalets--ruffled drawers that tied at the ankle and flapped in the wind as she rode. An admirer said that she looked just like a feather-legged chicken, and the name stuck. She and her cohort, Dangerous Dick Davis ran a saloon and brothel out of their cabin southwest of Lusk. It was a favorite gathering place for those on the wrong side of the law. Her local fame soared in 1879 when she was discovered shot dead at her spring . . .with the missing Dangerous Dick's footprints all around. She was rumored to have a lot of money hidden away. Whether it was stolen by her murderer or still awaits to be found depends on whose story you believe. Either way, she is remembered fondly by residents. A marker stands at the site of her cabin and her famous pantalets have had adventures of their own. Stolen from the historic site in 1964, they graced a Deadwood saloon until 1990, when a determined posse of Lusk residents raided the saloon and got the pantalets back. The parade included a red-headed Mother Featherlegs as well as cowboys, Indians, saloon girls, mounted cavalry, and gamblers . . . high entertainment for us cyclists and the locals who lined the street.
HEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:
| "I feel like I've been turning on the rotisserie all day." | |
| "I'm cooked." | |
| "I think this day is harder than Teton Pass because of the heat and headwind." | |
| "If you poked me with a fork right now I'd bleed gravy." |
DUH! OF THE DAY: Goes to Mary Naylor, who left SS#1 and got on the interstate before she realized she'd forgotten her gloves. She stopped to search her belongings and took off her helmet. There were her gloves (DUH!) inside the helmet. She'd been wearing them on top of her head!
A DUH of the day that I've been meaning to put in ever since Boise goes to all riders who bought out Georges Armadillo tires and then stored them in Silver while they got flat after flat on the road. Mike says the Armadillos work real well in deterring flats. Not one of them has gone flat on the van.
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PHOTOS OF THE DAY |
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Mike says that Jack E, Lope is related to Aunt E. Lope. He never married because he can't elope.
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![]() Thomas posing in his short shorts for my Chippendale calendar. Unfortunately the glare off his legs overexposed the photo. |
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Okay. Works for me.
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![]() Got milk? |
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In Shawnee, WY, pop. 3, the one existing building serves as a P.O., a supply store, and a beer joint; don't know whether Amy, the owner, lives there too.
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Postmistress, salesperson, bartender, and local historian, Amy poses with Carol, Val and a customer.
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Not to be outdone by Shawnee, Lost Springs posts a population of 1. How can you call something a town with a population of 1? Mike says that there are only a handful of towns in Wyoming with populations larger than their elevations.
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![]() The Gals in their new tee shirts ala Sonia: "Not Listening," "I didn't do it," "Do I look like I care?" and "Who asked you?" Each is perfectly suited to the personality of its wearer, of course. |