WHAT SHOULD YOU BRING?

Luggage

In all the crossings I’ve done, the most glaring fact that I’ve noticed is that almost everyone brings way too much “stuff.” This is not a case where "more is better." Don't bring anything that you "might" need. Only consider bringing what you have to have. People who have to handle your bags everyday will appreciate it if you leave most of your stuff home. And in the long run you will too. Remember you’ll have to lug that heavy bag everyday up and down stairs at motels for 4-9 weeks. My general rule is, if you can’t carry it comfortably, you packed too much. If you need help to put it in the baggage truck you packed too much. If you need wheels on your bag to get it around you packed too much…get the picture. I recommend a soft sided bag without wheels or “legs.” Suitcases and bags that have legs, wheels, and hard sides tend to get damaged and tend to tear other bags on trips like this. Then you’ll have more trouble getting the bag around. One person I met on my first ride only had a small gym bag of stuff plus his tent. He was my hero!

Most people bring everything they think they can’t live without, but you’d be surprised at how little it takes to survive the trip and you’ll feel better if you take less too. Every year I take less and less and still I take stuff that I never touch on the trip. And I’m on the road for 5 months! First, lay out everything you think you need a couple of days prior to packing. Then, take half of it and put it back into your dresser and wait another day. Finally, only pack half of what’s left. You’ll still have plenty and won’t use it all…I promise. You’ll wear the same shorts and T-shirt, sandals, and underwear for a couple of days since you won’t be in those clothes but for a couple of hours after your shower and before bed. You don’t need a change of clothes for everyday of the week. The prepared cyclist only takes about 2 or 3 (4 at the most) cycling outfits too…you can wash them out everyday in the sink or do laundry every 3 or 4 days. Every company should have a suggested list of things to bring. Don’t exceed it and you’ll be fine. Leave your personal tire pump, your hair dryer, your Sunday-go-to-meeting clothes, and the kitchen sink at home.

Computers

Some people have to have their computers on the trip. I’m not saying don’t bring it, but keep in mind that it will be hauled in the rear of the baggage truck and security is an issue...there won’t be eyes on it all the time. I know we are getting in a time when people feel they have to have their computer, but the world will go on if you don’t have it…especially on a bike ride. Most companies only allow 2 bags. If you bring your computer, that will be one bag and you’ll be limited in the size of the other one too in most cases. Plus, some rides that get into some of the rural areas of the country may stay at motels that don’t have phones in the room…I’m serious. In my opinion, some of these places are the most fun places to stay anyway. Be sure you have a fool-proof way of protecting your computer...either a good case or secure it in your luggage.

Bicycles

Of course, you need a bike for a trip like this. What kind of bike should you bring and how do I get it there? I’ve seen just about every kind of bike on cross country trips…racing bikes, hybrids, touring bikes, recumbents, tandems, tricycles, and even mountain bikes. Point is, ride something you’ll be comfortable on and one that can cover the mileage. What ever you bring, be sure to have it completely serviced by a reputable bike shop or do it yourself. Not a tune up, I mean a complete strip down to the bare frame, clean, grease, and tighten everything service. If you don’t, you’ll drive the mechanic crazy trying to find that little squeak that you have only in the middle of the day when the air is dry and no one else is around. You’ll ride in every imaginable condition, at different altitudes, and mileage you probably haven’t ridden before so your bike will have little squeaks that will drive you mad if you don’t take care of it before you leave. Plus, just because the company provides free mechanic service doesn’t mean that you should expect a free overhaul on the road if you need it. That’s not what it’s provided for. You should have a “perfectly” functioning bike when you arrive. You don’t want to throw out your bottom bracket on the second day out in the middle of nowhere in New Mexico. Not many parts stores in the desert.

No matter what you ride, you'll need to get it there. Most riders use Fed EX or UPS service to ship their bikes to and from the ride. Be sure to allow plenty of time for the bike to get to the starting point of the ride. We have had a couple of people who had to start the ride without their bike. That's a bummer...starting a bike vacation without a bike. We've even had a couple of people who had to buy a new bike the first day. Anytime you buy a new bike it's exciting, but the first day of a cross country trip is exciting enough without adding the stress of trying to find a new bike and to get it fit properly.

If you can bring your bike by car, or other means, intact it will save you putting it together after you get there and lesson the chances that something will break or need adjustment. If you are going to have your bike shipped, by all means, pick someone you trust to pack the bike and have them tighten up all the connections they loosened while packing. The biggest problem we usually run into when we assemble bikes is missing small parts that fell off during shipping. Things like derailleur cable screws, stem wedges, pedals, brake cable screws, etc. Any thing left loose in the box is likely not to make it to the beginning of the ride. And scrambling to find small parts only adds to the stress of day 1. You have better things to do than to try to find small parts. Finally, be sure to have your seat height and stem position clearly marked so you can properly set up your bike on assembly. You could sustain an injury if you don't get your bike set up the same as you are used to riding it.

Wheels

Before you leave, check your wheels carefully for hairline cracks in the rims, corroded spokes, cracked hubs, and badly adjusted bearings. If you have any of these problems or if you have old wheels, I recommend a new wheel set and ride them for at least 500 miles before you leave. Then check to make sure the spoke tension is balanced. If you are going to have problems with new wheels, it will usually show up by then.

Wheel damage/failure is a common breakdown on these trips. Leave the racing stuff at home for the most part. I know competitive people love to bring their good stuff. Well, you paid good money for those wheels, why not use them. Disk wheels, Spinergys, and exotic spoke patterns (like Rolf’s with hidden spoke nipples, the new Shimano light wheels, and Spox wheels) are tough to fix on the road. All these types of wheels take special spokes or nipples and getting parts out in the middle of nowhere is impossible. Plus, you'll be lucky if the mechanic has the expertise to fix it anyway. Plus, disks and Spinergys are unstable in high wind conditions. You’ll have your hands full on the flats let alone screaming downhill during squirrelly wind conditions…and you will have high wind conditions I promise.

I don’t know of any company that will allow people to bring extra wheel sets. If they did, they wouldn't have room for your luggage. So bring something that is reliable and fixable. If you weigh over 200 pounds, a light, competitive wheel set will not get you very far across the map I promise you. I rode with a 200+ pound guy who had a 32 spoke, light gauge, triple cross rear wheel that we had to true every night. He needed at least a 36 spoke, 14/15 gauge, triple cross wheel to support him. I’ve also seen a new Helium wheel explode on the first day under a 230 pound rider. Bring something that will get you across the country not something you feel will impress everyone.

Tires

A fallacy many riders fall into is, if it costs more it is better. I made this same mistake on my first trip. I bought Continental Grand Prix tires (at that time they were only $38 now they are $50+) and by the second day they were both ruined. A trip like this is really tough on tires. You are not riding in your local riding area where you know every pothole and hazard. You will be riding on roads, especially out west, that have an abundance of debris that will ruin tires. Plus, those expensive tires are made to be light and fast for racing, not touring. They will wear out much faster than a moderately priced kevlar tire. Forget rolling resistance, you are looking for something that will keep rolling even on grungy road surfaces. Find something with rubber sidewalls and kevlar as an added protection against flats. You don't have to have super heavy tires, but tires that weigh 300 grams are usually better/tougher than one that weighs 170 grams. And you racing folks should run something bigger than 18s or 20s. I’d recommend at least a 23 or a 25 if your frame will take it. The wider tires give you more room to prevent pinch flats and a more comfortable ride than real skinny tires. Most people who ride touring bikes or sport frames run 25s to 38s. I’m a competitive type rider and I ride a racing bike, but I put $10 tires on my bike to cross the country after I ruined the first expensive ones and finished the ride on them. Now you won't find many tires for $10 anymore, but you can still find tough, reliable performance tires for much less than the $50-60 racing tires. People who ride Specialized All Condition Pros or Specialized Armadillos seem to have the best success preventing flats. You won't find them for $10, but they are tough, give you excellent tread wear, and ride really well too.

If you ride a hybrid or a mountain bike, it should go without saying you should have slicks vs knobbies. Some people even put in a kevlar strip inside the tire to help prevent flats…not a bad idea, but leave the puncture seal at home. That stuff’s a mess if it gets into your valve stem or leaks out.

With all this being said, you'll notice throughout the above paragraphs I alluded to clincher tires. Don't even think about riding tubular tires on these rides. They are expensive, impractical, fragile, hard to find on the road, and a pain to fix. The mechanic doesn't have time to properly glue on your tires and you don't want to take the time to do it either. The fact that it takes over 36 hours to do it right makes them impractical on a ride like this.

Stuff to carry: tools, clothes, and spare parts

Even though the company usually provides mechanical support, you should carry enough tools to fix most common on-the-road problems you may encounter. The ride may get spread out over 50 miles during the day so the chances of the mechanic being right by you when you need him/her are rare. This being said, you don’t have to bring the whole tool box…just the essentials. Here’s a list that may come in handy. It’s served me well on 7 crossings.

· 3, 4, 5, 6 Allen wrenches (maybe an 8 if you have the new crank bolts)

· regular and Phillips screwdrivers

· wrenches to fit any bolts you have on your bike (especially if you don’t have quick releases on your wheels

· chain break tool

· spoke wrench (be sure it fits your spoke nipples)

· 2 spare tubes

· 1 patch kit (be sure the glue is fresh)

· tire tools (include tweezers to pull out little wires & thorns from tires)

· tire pump/cartridges (The pump is better on a ride like this)

· something to boot a tire (a dollar bill, a power bar wrapper, or duck tape)

· spare change for a phone call

Other "Stuff"

As far as other equipment, you’ll need a way to carry clothes you’ll need during the day. If you travel like me, I use a fanny pack to carry my rain gear if I think I’ll need it. Most people carry a rear trunk or rack on their bike to carry their foul weather clothes, camera equipment, dry socks, and sunscreen, etc. I’ve found that arm warmers, leg warmers, shoe covers (for warmth and to keep my shoes clean during rain), a skull cap, windbreaker, rain jacket and pants are essential items to have. Weather is sometimes unpredictable so it’s better to be prepared than to be surprised. You may start out on a nice day, but before you get to your destination the weather might be entirely different…especially if you are riding in the mountains or over a mountain range. I’ve started out on one side of a mountain in 90 degree weather and found 30s on the top or the other side...it could also be snowing. Being prepared for any extreme on any day will pay big dividends. If you stay in motels, you’ll become addicted to the weather channel.

You might also carry a couple of extra spokes strapped to your chain stays, extra spoke nipples, and some other small parts like a seat post bolt, chainring bolt, water bottle bolt, etc. Those things don’t take up any room and may come in handy. You can’t change a spoke on the drive side of the rear wheel without other specialized tools too big to carry with you, but you’ll have the stuff if the mechanic comes by.

Aero bars/gear ratios

Aero bars are good for aerodynamics and to have another position on long flat days or long days bucking a headwind. Just use common sense and don’t ride them when you are in a pack of riders unless you are pulling at the front.

You should consider your climbing ability when choosing a gear set. Even strong climbers will get a strenuous workout on these long days with lots of climbing everyday. Remember, you’ll be riding everyday so your legs won’t be as fresh as they would be if you were home. You can’t just turn around and go home if you feel a little weak on a certain day so add a bailout gear. The thing I noticed was I usually carry more stuff with me when I ride and the extra weight made climbing harder than when I train at home. Plus, add the tired legs…well, you get the picture. I highly recommend a triple crank for non-competitive riders (a must for self supported riders with panniers) and at least a 28 or possibly a 32 rear cog. For you hammers that travel light I suggest a minimum of a 39/23, but a 39/25 is better. I know, you usually climb the toughest climbs with a 19 or 21…me too when I’m racing or training, but I found on these rides that I was glad I had a 25 once in a while.

Shoes/helmets

It should go without saying that you bring a helmet and wear it anytime you have your leg over the top tube. I won’t bore you with stories of people who didn’t live (literally) by that philosophy. I don’t know of a touring company that will let you ride without one anyway. Some of our worst accidents happen in parking lots...so never, never, never pick your feet up off the ground, even to just ride around the parking lot, without putting on your helmet.

There’s no substitute for shoes that are comfortable and functional. I recommend leaving the racing shoes at home with the Look, Speed Play, Time or any other cleat that makes you walk like a duck. SPD type cleats on mountain bike shoes or touring shoes are much more practical and will prevent you from having to carry sandals around all day for when you want to get off somewhere and walk around. You are going to be in those shoes 4-10 hours a day so comfort is paramount.

Cameras

You have to bring something to record your experiences. I’ve seen some people bring cumbersome movie cameras or large 35mm camera equipment. If you have a special project that requires that kind of photo equipment, be prepared to carry it on your bike as you ride. Don’t expect the sag wagon to carry it for you and follow you around so you can get to the camera any time you want it. There are several companies that make small, water proof, zoom, pocket cameras take great pictures to remember your adventure. Even disposable cameras take good outdoor scenery pictures. I always like to have my camera in my jersey pocket if a Kodak moment presents itself, but a 35mm, SLR camera with a large zoom lens is tough to squeeze in there with all your PowerBars. Now that we are in the age of digital, you can find a small camera that fits into your pocket and can take hundreds of photos. Just be sure to get a card big enough to record all your photos while you are on the road.

Sunscreen

You are going to be out all day in the baking sun. Many wear long sleeve clothing for protection even on hot days. A company called Solumbra at 1-800-882-7860 can send you a catalog that has sun protective clothing. The clothes are not necessarily cycling specific, but are very practical if you have an over sensitivity to the sun. I didn’t mean to be overly commercial in this article, but I know of several people who’ve had problems who swear by these products.

If you are more of a purist like me, you’ll become very familiar with sunscreen. Wear it everyday. Put it on every exposed part of your body right after you brush your teeth in the morning and apply it throughout the day…even on cloudy days. It takes about 30 minutes for it to take effect so don’t wait till you are out in the sun. I recommend at least a 30 on your face and 45 is better. Only apply it from your eyes down to keep the sweat from washing it into your eyes during the ride. Your helmet and sunglasses will protect you above that level. If you have a bald head…apply it lightly to the top of your head too or you’ll be the talk of the ride with those funny tan lines on your noggin. Wear a sweat band to keep it from running down your face into your eyes or wear a light scarf under your helmet instead of sunscreen. If you don’t wear sunscreen you will bake on the long days in the saddle. Even with sunscreen, you’ll probably have some fun comparing suntan lines at the pool after each day’s ride. It’s a good thing you’re on a bike ride and not going to the beach every weekend. You’d be the talk of the beach with lines you’ll get on these rides!

Money/ID

Of course you’ll need money on a trip like this…your fee won’t cover every expense. Hey, you’ve got to buy ice cream everyday and every bike shop you come across will have something you can’t live without. I recommend bringing a bank card and traveler’s checks. Don’t carry large amounts of cash. Just carry enough to cover the expenses of the day and a little extra for emergencies. There will be some areas of the country that will not have an ATM but most will accept traveler’s checks.

Anytime you ride you should carry an ID card with emergency contacts listed. Don’t forget to have the info on your ride with you in case of an emergency (company name, phone number, where you plan to stay that evening with phone number, who to contact, etc.).

Tips On How to Pack What You Do Bring

After you've decided on what you are going to bring, you should have some idea of how to pack it. Here are some things that I've found to be helpful. Forget about folding all your clothes like you do at home. You will be living out of a bag with all your stuff in the same bag...not different drawers and with some of it hanging up in a closet. You need to get at everything without having to root around through everything to get to something in the bottom of your bag. I've found that if your roll up your clothing and stand them on end in your bag, you can find everything and get stuff out without disturbing everything else in your bag. Also, some people use large freezer bags to put underwear and socks in (or anything else for that matter) to keep them dry in case your bag gets caught in a rain shower (for some reason...it could happen especially if you are self supported or camping). There's nothing worse (well, hardly) than to be trying to dry out all your stuff when you'd rather be sight seeing. I use a large trash bag to put stuff in to keep it dry. If you use the plastic bag idea, you'll find that you can squeeze out lots of air that is in your garments and they take up less room in your bag...which increases the weight of your bag since you'll have more room for more stuff. Sometimes not a good trade off.

Be sure to put all your sun tan lotions, tooth paste, skin creams, shampoos, etc., in plastic bags that can be sealed (and be sure to squeeze out all the air) to keep them from spilling all over your clothes. This is especially important when you go to high altitudes...things in containers tend to expand and they get really messy in your suitcases when they pop the top and run all through your nice clean, dry clothing. Plus, getting shampoo out of your suitcase material is really tough to do.

Something else I found to be effective in suitcase management is to roll up an entire riding outfit into one unit. That is, take your riding jersey and fold it in half, length wise, then fold the arms over the body of the jersey. Now, take your bike shorts and lay them on the jersey. Next, take your socks and lay them on the shorts. If you wear an undershirt, or for ladies a sports bra, fold it length wise and put in on top of that. Last, roll everything up in a "tootsie roll" inside the jersey. Now you don't have to rummage to find your socks, shorts, and jersey. You already have them all together...just take them out and put them on...you can even do it in the dark! I fold my stuff like that as I'm doing laundry...don't have to sort stuff at all...just put it in my bags! Neat huh?

We could talk about what to bring all day, but for now this will suffice. I've added America by Bicycle's "Equipment List" at this link for you to use as a guide too. Just remember that you probably won't need everything you think you will and if you forget something that's really important, you can probably buy it on the road somewhere. But what ever you bring, make sure it's serviceable, practical, and necessary. You'll get tired of lugging around stuff all summer that you don't use. Also, don't forget the other option, you can always mail stuff home. This is important since I've noticed that several bags get heavier as the ride goes along...shopping is a favorite past time.